Dog in space - LIKA in 1957

 
Laika is the first acknowledged living creature to have orbited space. A good-natured mongrel stray of calm disposition from the streets of Moscow, there is much speculation regarding Laika's ancestry. Some reports describe her as a Husky-mix or Samoyed-mix, almost certainly with strains of Spitz and Terrier in her bloodline, and it has even been suggested that one of her parents may have been a Beagle. Laika was probably around three years old when she was launched from Earth in Sputnik-2 on November 3, 1957. She was one of three dogs trained for the flight, the other two being named Albina and Mushka. Albina flew twice on a high-altitude test rocket, while Mushka was used to test instrumentation and life support. Laika weighed approximately 13 lbs. and her initial given name was Kudryavka ("Little Curly") but she was also nicknamed Zhuchka ("Little Bug") and Limonchik ("Lemon"). "Laika" is the Russian word for "barker" and was used to describe all Spitz-type dogs prior to the Nineteenth Century. Still, most of the world just called her "Muttnik." Her pressurized cabin within the spacecraft resembled an elongated ellipsoidal nest. The high walls were covered with soft padded material and there were intricate life support instruments positioned everywhere. Laika was secured in place with a special harness and had access to both water and food (a special high-nutrition gel) during the flight..
According to a NASA document, Laika was actually placed in the satellite on October 31, 1957, three days prior to launch from the Baikonur Cosmodrome (located NorthEast of the Aral Sea). She was carefully groomed...her coat sponged with a weak alcohol solution and then finely combed. Areas of her body where electrodes would be attached were painted with iodine and powdered with a streptocide. It was reported that Laika suffered no extreme ill-effects during the ascent and insertion into orbit since the electrodes recorded relatively normal vital signs under the circumstances, although she did seem somewhat agitated and her pulse rate did rise to three times its resting level. While weightless, she was able to take food and water from the onboard dispenser, bark and move around...although her movements were restricted by the harness she was wearing.
Originally, it was uncertain how long Laika had survived in space, with initial estimates ranging from twenty-four hours to one week and the possible speculation that she had lived for as many as ten days. The method of Laika's death was also unknown initially. One rumor suggested that the last of the food in her dispenser contained a poison which put her to sleep just before her life-support batteries ran down...another that her chamber was eventually filled with gas for painless euthanasia after a few days in orbit...or that she may have expired when her oxygen suppy depleted...or that she succumbed to extreme cold. In 1999, several Russian sources stated that Laika had died after four days in space when the cabin overheated. However, in October of 2002, during a gathering of the World Space Congress in Houston, Texas, it was revealed by Dr. Dimitri Malashenkov of the Institute for Biological Problems in Moscow, that after five to seven hours following the launch of Sputnik-2, no lifesigns were being received from Laika. By the fourth orbit, it was apparent that the little dog had passed away from overheating and stress...undoubtedly an exceedingly painful and distressful death. According to Gyorgi Grechko, a cosmonaut who previously worked as an engineer at the Korolev Design Bureau, it seems likely that when Sputnik-2 bounced off the atmosphere, it failed to separate from the booster rocket and thereby rendered the thermal control system inoperative.
Sputnik-2, which weighed half a ton and was reportedly launched to commemorate the 40th Anniversary of the Bolshevik Revolution, continued to circle the earth for 163 days. During that time, it completed 2,370 orbits and traveled approximately 100 million kilometers. On April 14, 1958, the spacecraft...carrying the body of its valiant little pioneer...fell out of orbit and burned up during re-entry into the Earth's atmosphere. Since there was no recovery procedure for true orbital flights in 1957, Laika is the only creature knowingly sent into space to die. Her death sparked animal rights debates across the planet. In Russia, Laika and all the other creatures that made space flight possible are remembered as heroes.
In November of 1997, a plaque commemorating the contributions of Laika and other animals that were studied in the space program was unveiled at the Institute for Aviation and Space Medicine at Star City, just outside Moscow. The monument itself pays tribute to the fallen Russian cosmonauts, but in a corner is the image of a small mongrel dog...ears standing straight. A year later, one of the former lead scientists who had worked on the Soviet "animals-in-space" program expressed his deep regrets regarding Laika:

"The more time passes, the more I'm sorry....
We shouldn't have done it....
We did not learn enough from the mission to justify the death of the dog."   MORE ARTICLES   

‘Hachiko : A Dog’s Story’ The touching true story of a sweet, lo

Really heart touching!!!!

 

Brushing Your Dog's Teeth

 

How to Stop Your Dog From Going in the Pool

You may enjoy time outside, swimming in the pool with your dog, but you may also be tired of seeing dog hair in the pool or cuts in your pool’s lining. Dog hair in your pool could lead to your filter getting clogged and running dry for hours at a time, which could lead to the pump overheating and causing a fire! And we all know tears in the lining lead to leaks and expensive repairs. For many dog lovers, they have no fear of ripped liners or clogged filters, which is great! But some do worry about their dog reacting to the chemicals in the pool, and also damaging the pool. If you are the latter, it may be time for you to stop your dog from going in the pool. The first step to stop your dog from going in the pool is to put a fence around your pool. This isn’t only a good idea to prevent your dog from going in, but it’s also a safe idea to prevent young children from falling into the pool. Many towns require their residents to put fences with closed gates around their pools for safety. If you live in a town with this requirement, you will be able to tackle this obligation as a resident and your dog problem just by installing a fence. If your town doesn’t require you to have a fence or a fence is too expensive for you, there are several other options to prevent your dog from going in the pool.
1. Put your dog on a leash near the pool. Wrap the leash around a tree or a secure object. This way you can still enjoy some outdoor time with your dog. Make sure to put the leash far enough away from the pool so your dog doesn’t have the chance of falling in while wearing the leash..
2. If you have a smaller dog you can put them in a small portable play pen near your pool. The fold-up pens are usually 2 to 3 feet tall and have a little gate for easy-in/ easy-out.
3. If you have a larger dog you can get a runner. Set up the runner between two trees near your pool. You can still spend some time outside with your dog and he or she will be able to burn off some energy.
4. Train your dog to not go in the pool! This may be easy for some, while more difficult for others. If your dog is well-trained and obedient then this may be the best option for you. But, if your dog takes some time to listen and learn then you may want to choose another method.
5. Find out if your dog is scared of water. You may have just had your pool installed and are weary that your dog may want to dive in. Before going through the hassle of setting up a fence, find out if your dog is a canine who doesn’t like water. Your dog may not even want to go in the pool. A good percentage of dogs actually tense up in the water, while others instinctively do the doggy paddle.
If you still want your dog to be able to swim with you just be sure to keep your dog away from the edges of the pool to prevent them cutting the lining with their nails. Also, be sure to skim the top of the pool, along with running your filter, to clear out dog hair. You may also want to consider looking into specially designed vinyl, foam, and woven pool liners and pads, which are more resistant to rips and tears. This may be a pricey choice, but it’s a great alternative that allows your dog to enjoy the pool.
The choice is up to you, whether you set up behavioral boundaries, a physical boundary, or if you find out if your dog doesn’t even want to go in the pool. Always be sure that the option you choose is safe and affordable for you, your family, and your dog.

Related Articles:   

* Brushing Your Dog's Teeth

* 10 Exercises to Do With Your Dog

* Dog skin problem ?

‘Hachiko : A Dog’s Story’ The touching true story of a sweet, loyal dog

 (Hachiko statue -Tokyo,Japan)

Triwik Kurniasari,

A- A A+

This is the heartwarming story about the close, unique bond between a master and his dog, highlighting the loyalty and faithfulness of the animal.
How tight is the bond between you and your dog? Do you know how much love and loyalty there is between you? Is your dog as loyal as Hachiko? Wait, who is Hachiko? Well, this film will tell you.
The life journey of Hachiko or “Hachi” begins when college professor Parker Wilson (Richard Gere) finds the dog at a train station. Hachi is an Akita dog from Japan, characterized by its delicate features and milk-colored fur.
The sudden appearance of the cute, homeless animal does not immediately impress Parker’s wife, Cate Wilson (played by Joan Allen) who wants to get rid of it. But the bond that gradually builds between Parker and Hachi eventually melts her heart, and she allows it to stay.
Parker’s best friend Ken (Cary-Hiroyuki Tagawa), who is of Japanese descent, tells Parker some wise words: “It is not you who found the dog, but the dog found you.”
Parker and Hachi build an unbreakable friendship. Parker plays with the dog and teaches it how to catch a ball. And Hachi accompanies the professor every day on his way to the train station, and then returns to the station in the afternoons to greet Parker on his way home.
One day the professor passes away in class, and does not come back to the station. But Hachi continues to wait for him. Parker’s daughter, who lives out of town eventually goes to collect the dog to take it home, but afterwards Hachi faithfully returns to the station to wait for the professor.
The story of Hachi soon becomes the talk of the town. During its daily visits to the station Hachi touches the hearts of many people who work or live in the area. The dog teaches the local people about love, compassion, devotion and loyalty.
This film is an American adaptation of a true Japanese story about a loyal dog named Hachiko, and is also a remake of the 1987 Japanese film Hachiko Monogatari.
The real Hachiko was born in 1923 in Odate and a year later a professor called Ueno brought it to his home in Tokyo.
Just like in the movie, Hachiko followed the professor everywhere, accompanying him to Shibuya station every morning and then returning and waiting for him every afternoon.
One day in May 1925, Ueno didn’t come home because he died while at work. Mrs. Ueno gave the dog to her husband’s relative, but it returned to the train station every afternoon for about a decade.
Hachiko continued to go to the station until its death in 1935.
Hachiko was memorialized in a bronze statue, captured sitting in its waiting spot outside the Shibuya station to remind the community of its great devotion and love.
With so many dog movies around, Hachiko appears to be the most touching yet.
This is definitely a tearjerker, in the magnitude of the animal’s love for its master. While the film is about undying love, and Hachiko symbolizes faith and loyalty, it also gives us mixture of feelings of hope, happiness, loss and loneliness.
There is only one thing I can suggest if you choose to watch this film: Make sure you bring enough tissues.
more great stories>>>Click here

Really heart touching!!!!

Y we shouldn't like this? Think of it!!!


Hey, wake up! wake up!
A dog was knocked down by a car and died on the middle of the road. Later, another
dog is seen beside the corpse of the dog, he tried to wake his friend up using his leg.


Let's move to the safer side of the road...i will move you to the safer side!..

When his attempts to wake his friend failed, he tried to push his friend to the side of the road. But the weight of his friend was proven too heavy for him.

Anyone help, tell me what to do.

Though the traffic is busy and dangerous, he just will not go away from his friend. Just stand beside his friend howling and crying.

A lot of people saw this incident and feel very touched.

How even a dog can show his loyalty and love to his friend

more>>>>>>

Do-it-Yourself Dog Grooming

Should you take your dog to a professional dog groomer, or should you groom your dog yourself?
Depending on your dog’s needs, the answer might be to do both. If you take your dog to a professional dog groomer, you can groom him yourself between appointments. And if your dog’s coat doesn’t require the care of a professional dog groomer, you may be able to be his sole groomer.

Benefits of grooming your dog yourself

Your dog benefits physically. Dog grooming distributes skin oils throughout the dog’s coat, removes loose hair and irritants, and keeps hair free of dirt and tangles. While you’re grooming your dog, you can look for any changes to his body and spot possible health concerns, including the presence of fleas.
And, of course, a dog that’s groomed regularly looks healthier and more cared for.
Your dog benefits emotionally. Dogs that have learned not to trust humans or that aren’t accustomed to being handled can overcome their fears with repeated gentle handling. Grooming your dog provides him with regular sessions in which to experience pleasure at the hands of humans.
You and your dog have more bonding time. One-on-one time with your dog is when the greatest bonding occurs. While grooming him, you’ll be able to observe how he reacts to and communicates with you.
You benefit emotionally. Studies have shown that spending time with pets can improve psychological well-being and lower blood pressure, among other benefits.
You save money. Do-it-yourself dog grooming costs only the equipment needed for grooming. If your dog has a high-maintenance coat, however, or if you don’t have the patience or time to groom your dog regularly, it may be better to take your dog to a professional dog groomer.

How to start grooming your dog

The younger you start grooming your dog, the easier it will be for him to become accustomed to being groomed. Be gentle and praise your dog often to make the grooming sessions positive experiences.
If your dog isn’t comfortable with being groomed, grooming sessions should be short at first and increased when the dog has become accustomed to the experience. You may want to groom just one part of his body one day and another part another day.

Dog grooming tools

These are some tools to choose from, depending on your dog’s coat:

Dog brushes

Dog brushes come in plastic or metal and can be soft or hard. Brush types:

• Wire pin brushes (with straight metal pins, sometimes with rubber tips on the bristles) for dogs with short or wooly coats, or for the first brushing
• Slicker brushes (with more and shorter pins than wire pin brushes) for more thorough brushings, mostly for dogs with thicker coats
• Bristle brushes for general brushing

Dog combs

• Curry combs are good at getting out tangles and lots of loose hair.
• Fine-tooth combs are for soft coats.
• Medium-tooth combs can be used on most dogs.
• Wide-tooth combs are suitable for heavy coats.

Dog clippers and blades

 

A wide range of blades is available. Their suggested use is for people who have had professional training in their use.

Dog nail clippers

Dog nail clippers are available in three main types and in different sizes:

• Pliers-style clippers work like pruning shears. They work well with thick nails.
• Guillotine-style clippers have a hole at the top to insert the dog’s nail into and replaceable blades. They may be more difficult to use with larger breeds or dogs with thicker nails.
• Scissors-style nail clippers work like scissors. They’re mainly for cats and birds, but they’re sometimes used on smaller dogs.

If you aren’t sure what type of nail clippers to use on your dog, ask your dog groomer or veterinarian. Use only nail clippers that are sharp.
It’s a good idea to have styptic powder or Kwik-Stop on-hand to stop the bleeding in case you accidentally trim too much.

 

 Dog grooming

Ideally, you’ll be able to groom your dog several times a week. Once a week may be often enough for short-haired dogs
Run a hand along the dog’s body to feel for lumps, injuries, or other changes as you groom. Check the dog’s feet for any sores. Praise your dog to help him feel comfortable with the procedure.
Start grooming at the dog’s head, grooming in the direction of the dog’s hair. Use a comb to remove dead hair and go over the dog’s body, legs, and tail. Be sure to groom behind the ears, at the base of the tail, and on the dog’s chest and flanks. Be especially gentle in areas where the bones protrude. Then, brush the dog with a brush to remove further loose hair.
Matted hair causes discomfort in dogs. You may be able to remove small mats by gently separating the mats into sections with your fingers. Be careful not to pull on the dog’s coat. If you cut off the edge of the mat with scissors (being careful to point the scissors away from the dog), the rest of the mat may be easier to work through. Larger or thicker mats are best left to a professional dog groomer.

Nail clipping

Dog nails should be just long enough to touch the ground when the dog is walking. When they’re longer, it’s time to trim them. Some dogs need their nails trimmed once or twice a month, while other dogs wear down their nails naturally. If the nails are left too long without being trimmed, the quick (the vein inside the nails) may extend further than normal. When the nails are trimmed regularly, however, it will retreat.
Get your dog in a comfortable position on your lap or on the floor. Extend each nail before trimming it, look for the quick inside the nail, and be careful not to trim close to the quick. With darker nails, the quick is more difficult to see, so take extra care. The quick starts where the nail gets darker.
Cut from underneath the nail. When you have the clippers in place and have located the quick, cut hard to get through the nail. Trim just a little bit at a time from the tip of each nail.
Keep the experience a pleasant one for your dog. Do only a few nails at a time if necessary, and praise your dog often. A treat afterwards makes the experience more pleasurable.
You may find it easier to trim your dog’s nails after a long walk or run, when he’s tired and wants to lie down. Or if one person trims the nails while another person distracts the dog with attention, the dog will be focused on the positive attention rather than the nail trimming.
 If you would like to groom your dog yourself I would highly recommend that you check this e book  "How To Groom Your Dog At Home "- ($11.51)


Dog grooming videos click here 



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Brushing Your Dog's Teeth

Brushing your dog’s teeth is just as important as brushing your own. Plaque can build up and cause cavities and gum disease. Poor dental hygiene can lead to bad breath, loss of teeth, weight loss, pain, and digestive problems.  It can also negatively affect all the body’s organs, and has been shown to contribute to heart disease.

Brushing your dog’s teeth doesn’t have to be a huge, stressful, messy production, but it will be if you just grab a hold of your dog and start brushing. You must first condition your dog to all aspects of the experience so it has familiar and positive associations for him.

Be sure to use a toothbrush and toothpaste made for dogs. Dog toothpaste is made to taste good to dogs, is ok to swallow, and has many different ingredients from people toothpaste, which is not meant to be swallowed and can make your dog sick. Dog toothbrushes are softer and a different shape than people toothbrushes. There are also dental sponges, swabs, and finger brushes you can try which perform the same task as toothbrushes, but some dog owners find them easier to use.

Start by putting a dab of dog toothpaste on your finger and letting your dog lick it off. If he licks it off, give him a treat and lots of praise. If he doesn’t, let him sniff at it for a moment and see what he does. If he still doesn’t go for it, place a tiny dab on a dog treat and let your dog eat the treat, then offer him your finger with paste on it again. If your dog still doesn’t lick the paste, you might have to try another flavor. Once you’ve found a flavor your dog likes, offer him a little on your finger every day for a week, and always give him a treat and plenty of praise after he licks it off.

The following week, put a little paste on your finger and rub it on just one of your dog’s canine teeth. This will get him used to having his mouth messed with, but it will go more smoothly because he already has a week’s worth of positive associations with the flavor of the toothpaste, and receiving treats afterwards. Every day for a week, rub a little toothpaste on one of your dog’s teeth, and then give him a treat and praise.

The next week, put a little toothpaste on the toothbrush you will be using to brush your dog’s teeth, and offer it to him to lick off. This will help him acclimate to the texture of the toothbrush in his mouth. Do not let your dog chew the toothbrush, or he might think it’s a toy. After he licks the paste off the brush, give him a treat and praise. Do this for another week.

Once that week is up, when you and your dog are both in relaxed, agreeable moods, put some toothpaste on the toothbrush, lift your dog’s upper lip, place the brush at a forty five degree angle to his gum line, and brush two or three teeth. Then stop, give your dog a couple of treats and a huge amount of praise. The next day brush two or three different teeth and then give him a treat and tons of praise. Brush a different couple of teeth every day for a week.

The following week, brush five or six teeth every day, followed by treats and praise. Always stop brushing before your dog gets antsy. Stopping after he acts fussy will make him think he can always get you to stop by acting out. Try to always end a brushing session on a good note and with lots of treats and praise. Eventually, you will be able to brush your dog’s whole mouth with no problem at all. He might even look forward to it!



You can also help keep your dog’s teeth clean with dental treats like Greenies, and dental chews, rawhides, and rope toys, all of which are proven to remove plaque from dog’s teeth. Any crunchy dog biscuits will also help to scrape off plaque and encourage better dental health.

For more about dog grooming check the e book  How To Groom Your Dog At Home($11.51)

more>>>>>>>>>

Dog skin problem ?

 
Dogs with skin irritations are hard to miss. They scratch incessantly, have hair loss and often smell bad.
Skin irritations can have any number of causes:
Allergies: Allergies are a big reason for itchy skin. Dogs can be allergic to a particular food, to an airborne substance like pollen or human dander, or to fleabites. Any one of these irritants can cause the skin to become red and itchy. Skin irritated by allergens can develop a secondary bacterial infection as well.
The best way to deal with allergies in dogs is to first find the cause. Your veterinarian can help you with this. Have your dog allergy tested for a variety of substances, or do food tests with your vet’s help if he or she suspects your dog is suffering from a food allergy.
If fleas are the culprits, protect your dog with a monthly topical flea product administered directly on the skin. These products keep fleas from reproducing in the environment and biting your dog. Your veterinarian can recommend an appropriate product for your particular dog’s needs.



Inhaled allergens are more difficult to control than food and flea irritants because they can be hard to identify. With the help of an allergy test, your veterinarian can discover the exact cause of your dog’s allergies. This will enable the vet to develop allergy shots for your dog to help desensitize him to substances in his environment that are triggering his allergies.
           
Bacterial infections: Dogs suffering from allergies sometimes develop secondary bacterial infections, which cause the skin to be itchy, ulcerated and smelly. Most often caused by the streptococcus bacteria, which enters the skin through the dog’s biting and scratching, these infections must be treated by a veterinarian. Your vet will likely prescribe oral antibiotics for your dog as well as a topical ointment. It’s important to control the allergy that caused the initial scratching as well so the problem doesn’t reoccur. Spraying your dog  after bathing with a mild shampoo will help fight bacterial infections.


Fungal infections: The most common fungal skin infection seen in dogs is ringworm. Caused by either the microsporum and trichophyton organisms, this infection often results in a loss of hair in a circular pattern. A crusty scab may form over the area, and the dog may scratch at it.
Your veterinarian may do a skin culture to determine which organism is causing the problem and prescribe a medicated shampoo, along with a topical ointment.
You may want to consider using a shampoo,  an effective medicated shampoo, that kills both fungus and bacteria associated with common skin problems associated with dogs.
Parasites: Tiny creatures that make their living on the skin can also cause considerable irritation to dogs. Sarcoptic and demodectic mange are two common skin conditions caused by mites. These parasites result in intense itching. With demodectic mange, dogs also experience hair loss, often in a circular pattern similar to ringworm. It’s important to get a diagnosis from your veterinarian to determine whether your dog is suffering from ringworm or demodectic mange because the treatments are very different. Sarcoptic mange is also itchy and causes considerable crusting of the skin.
Tick bites can also prompt itching and irritation, even after the tick is removed. But the most common parasite blamed for skin infections is the flea, since many dogs are allergic to its bite. Fleabites result in itchy hotspots, which are frequently scratched and chewed on by affected dogs.
If your veterinarian suspects mange, he or she will do a skin scraping and view the results under a microscope. The vet may prescribe regular dips to destroy the mites causing the condition. If a secondary bacterial infection is present, you will need to apply a topical antibiotic ointment.
           
Hormone problems: Some dogs with hormone imbalances can develop skin conditions. Over- or under-production of the pituitary, adrenal, thyroid and reproductive glands can result in a hormonal imbalance. The result can be hair loss in various parts of the body. Because these conditions can be dangerous if not treated, it’s important to have your dog examined by a vet right away should he begin to experience significant hair loss.

It’s important to remember that if your dog is suffering from a skin irritation, your vet is the best person to diagnose the problem and prescribe treatment. In the meantime, regularly bathing your dog with a quality shampoo that is easy on the skin,  can help keep your dog’s skin happy and healthy.







 I would highly recommend that you check the e book  "Dog Skin Solutions - The Ultimate Guide ($6.02) " for further details about dog skin problems

more>>>>  AT WHAT AGE SHOULD TRAINING START?