Training Your New Puppy or Dog
It is important to start training
your new puppy as soon as you bring it home. Training can be done
yourself or a professional can be hired. Local dog training classes are
often available. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a trainer or look in
your local newspaper for a trainer in your area.
There are two types of training: behavioral and
obedience.
Behavioral training prevents and or corrects bad habits that your puppy or dog may develop or already has developed. Jumping, car chasing, begging, climbing on
furniture, and chewing
are just a few. It is very important to be consistent during the
training process. For example, do not let your puppy on the couch unless
you are planning to allow it on the couch when it is full grown. This
will confuse it, causing problems. Taking the time to learn dog
psychology and satisfying the dog's natural instincts along with proper exercise will help you communicate to your dog and can mean the difference between success and failure.
Obedience training is
training the dog to obey certain commands such as sit, stay, come and
teaching it to heel. Training sessions should be frequent but short to
prevent your dog from becoming bored; ten to fifteen minute sessions,
two or three times a day will be sufficient.
Tip: training your dog right before
meals will help them associate their meal with a reward for the
training and also make them more interested in the food treat you use in
your training session.
Before giving a word command to
your dog, speak its name to get its attention; then speak a one-word
command such as "stay," "sit," "come" or "heel."
Do not get impatient. You will probably have to repeat the command many
times. Never use negative reinforcement. Do not call your dog to come
to you for punishment because this will teach your dog not to come on
command. Be sure to keep any frustration out of the tone of your voice.
If you feel yourself becoming frustrated, take a break. Your dog can
sense this and will start to associate training with your unhappiness.
You cannot hide your frustration from a dog. You cannot pretend. Dogs
can feel human emotion, so stay relaxed, firm and confident.
Some of the specific commands are "sit," "stay," "come," "down" and "heel." When
speaking the commands, say them loudly and clearly, repeating them
often. The dog may have to hear the commands over and over, but will
soon begin to associate the word with its meaning. Always remember to
praise your dog when it responds correctly. This will encourage your dog
to perform correctly the next time. You may either use food, or
affection such as a belly rub, a pet or verbal praise as the reward or
both.
A lot of puppy and dog training classes teach the heel command only in the advanced classes. The heel command
should actually be one of the first things you teach your puppy or dog.
They need to learn how to follow. Once you establish this all other
aspects of training will be easier and their behavior in general will be
better as the dog will learn to respect you as the leader.
Tips on teaching your dog or puppy to sit:
When teaching your dog to sit, hold
your hand high over its head with a reward in it. Your dog will look up
at the reward. Use your other hand to gently push the dog's behind into
a sitting position, and say in a clear, firm tone, "SIT" while still
holding the reward in the air above the dog's head. When your dog sits,
give him the treat and verbally praise him. Do not allow your dog to
jump up and grab the reward out of your hand. Say firmly, "NO." You will
have to repeat this over and over. Eventually your dog will associate
sitting with the reward and will sit without your assistance. Remember
the training sessions should be short but frequent. Repeat this method
periodically throughout the day. If you get frustrated, stop and try
again later.
Tips on teaching your dog or puppy to stay and
come:
It is usually best to teach your
dog to sit before you teach it to stay. The reason is your dog will have
an easier time staying if it is in a sitting position. After your dog
has the sitting command down, and has been correctly sitting for a
couple of days without assistance, it is time to teach your dog to stay
and come. Tell your dog to sit. Have two rewards in your hand. After
your dog sits, give it one of the rewards.
Hold your empty hand up like a stop
sign in front of your dog's face and back up slowly
saying "STAY" clearly and firmly. Be sure to stay facing your dog and
remain looking at him. Go a short distance and say with some
enthusiasm, "COME." When your dog comes to you reward him again. If your
dog gets up and runs to you without the "COME" command, say "NO" and
start all over again. Remember to verbally praise as well as provide a
food reward when he gets a new command correct. Start off only backing
up a short distance from your dog. As he begins to understand what you
want of him, you may back farther away and eventually you may be able to
walk out of sight and have your dog still stay until he hears the
"COME" command. Remember to be consistent and stop if you become
frustrated. Your dog can sense frustration
and it will confuse him. They want to please you. If they sense your
frustration, they may learn to dislike the training sessions as they
associate them with a negative feeling coming from you.
Tips on teaching your dog to lie down:
After successfully teaching
your dog to sit, stay, and come—without assistance, it's time to teach
him to lie down on command. Tell your dog to sit. Show him the reward
you have in your hand. Hold the reward up and then bring it down in
front of the dog to the floor and say "DOWN" in a firm clear voice. Only
give the reward if he lies down to reach it. Do not give it to him if
he stands up to reach the reward. Again repeat this throughout the day
as much as possible, keeping sessions short and frequent.
Each training session should
include any new commands you are trying as well as old commands the dog
has already learned—so the dog does not forget them. Always be
consistent. Important: If you become frustrated, stop and try again later.
Staying positive and taking the time
to play with your dog during sessions will teach him that following
commands is happy and rewarding.
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Friday, August 31, 2012
Training Your New Puppy or Dog
Why Dogs Fight With Other Dogs
Interdog Aggression: Why Dogs Fight With Other Dogs
How to Recognize Interdog Aggression:
* Your dog growls at other dogs, nearby. Growling indicates your dog’s desire to attack.* Instead of eating a treat immediately upon receiving it, your dog is overly possessive of the treat and hides it or stands guard over the treat so that other dogs or pets won’t take it away. This is also a form of antagonism that your dog is displaying toward your other pets which is another way of saying: your dog is picking a fight.
* What started out as usual playing among your dog and another dog, turns into a hostile fight or growling match. If your dog is not aggressive, they will submit and not growl back.
Reasons for Interdog Aggression:
* Fear of being attacked by the other dog, though there may be no indication of aggression made by the other dog.* Insecurity. Your dog’s insecurity is different than a human’s insecurity: If your dog doesn’t spend his days burning off energy hunting and chasing vermin in the yard or critters in the forest and doesn’t have a good foundation of obedience training and socialization, (s)he doesn’t have the self-confidence necessary to know how to have a balanced relationship with another dog, or how to act when one on one with another animal. This lack of experience causes to insecurity which turns into aggression. Note: allowing your dog to hunt in the woods or in your yard is not suggested to solve insecurity. A professional dog trainer or professionally-advised handling tips must be used to strengthen your dog’s sense of self so (s)he won’t have to resort to violence against every dog encountered.
* Your dog’s natural sense of being territorial. Protecting your home and property might not be behavior that you want to change. If your dog is aggressive towards other dogs that come near your home but is not aggressive when away from your home, you’ll need to make sure that your yard is well-fenced. Also, for some flock guardian breeds, this behavior is encouraged.
* Suffering from previous owner’s over-socialization with older dogs, as a puppy. If you have a rescue dog that is displaying strong dog aggression, chances are high your dog was not socialized properly. (S)he has learned to defend themselves with violent means. If you are an owner of a rescue dog, you probably don’t need to be told that you should start your dog on a “Nothing In Life Is Free” program and begin obedience training exercises so that your dog develops a vocabulary and relationship with you, that will allow you to communicate with your dog that fighting with other dogs is not tolerated.
* Some breeds are more prone to this form of aggression. For some dogs, there may be a genetic component to the aggression.
* Dogs that are often bred to fight are certainly more susceptible to fighting. Dogs like Pit Bulls, Bulldogs, Bull Terriers, Akitas and Shar peis come from a long line of fighters. They have the thrill of the fight in their blood and though they are not natural hunters or have not been abused as puppies, they may (but not always) have a natural instinct to fight with other dogs.
Examples of Interdog Aggression
* While walking on a leash, your dog sees another dog and makes every attempt to wiggle out of his leash in order to attack another dog.* When you open your front door, your dog tries desperately to run out to attack another dog.
* At the dog park, your dog starts out playing with another dog but begins to fight physically with that other dog over a toy, bone or area of the park.
Precautions to Take if your Dog Displays Interdog Aggression
* Choose a leash and a training collar. Learn the right technique to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. This can be learned in less than an hour, and for some dogs… in less than 10 minutes. If your dog is not pulling on the leash, there is a 90% chance he won’t be aggressive toward other dogs.* Hold the leash by putting your thumb through the loop, and then folding the leash in half and close your fist around both strands of the leash. Do not simply grasp the ring of your dog’s leash to hold on to him/her. This is the number one way a dog gets lost. If your dog is prone to running, bring your other hand up under your first hand (two hands, together) which gives you firmer control of the leash.
* Break in the use of a muzzle on your dog, before you encounter another dog.
Note: never force your dog to wear the muzzle for longer than five or ten minutes the first several times. A muzzle can be a stressful experience for your dog.
The first five or six uses of the muzzle, only keep it on your dog for ten minutes and keep your dog inside. Reward them with a treat upon removing the muzzle. After the sixth use of the muzzle, venture outside with your leashed dog and only keep him or her out for 20 minutes maximum. Increase accordingly.
Let me reiterate that interdog aggression (more commonly known as just “dog aggression”) is distinct from “handler aggression” in that the dog is aggressive toward other dogs, and this behavior may be completely devoid of handler aggression. In other words: Sometimes we’ll see dogs that are perfectly fine around adults, children, babies … even other types of animals. But when it comes to interactions with other dogs, you’ll see the aggression come out.
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Homemade Dog Food Recipes...
Hot Dog! It's Home Cookin'! Want More Wags? Then Ditch The Bags
Homemade Dog Food Recipes...
What would you prefer? A TV dinner, or a homemade stew made by Mom herself? Most of us have eaten both, and have a preference. I can't speak for your mother's cooking ability, but chances are, she can do a bit better than a frozen brick of kinda-food. This example may make it easier to empathize with your dog when you fill his bowl with nuggets of processed corn meal and he glances up your way that saying, "You've got to be kidding me."Or, maybe your best buddy is more than willing to scarf down anything that hits the bowl. In that case, you might want to ask yourself, "Is conventional dog food the best thing for him?" Your dinner choices might be a no-brainer, but choosing the best option for your pet isn't always that easy. He's relying on you to make the healthiest, and most enjoyable, choices for him.
Share your favorite homemade dog food recipe with our community of dog lovers - submit recipe here.
When you make food at home for your dog, you are ensured that your dog is eating food that meets your standards, and is free of preservatives, fillers, and chemicals that are often found in commercial dog foods.
Join me, and we'll discuss the questions that both you and your dog have been asking about homemade dog food. We'll explore the different avenues available to gain and maintain a healthy coat and skin, lean muscle, strong bones and teeth, hearty organs and immune systems, high energy, efficient digestion, and an increased life expectancy. In other words, all the things we want for our much loved dogs.
Are There Different Types of Homemade Dog Food?
You betcha. Much like human food, homemade dog food can be categorized in order to narrow the search for your best friend's most beneficial diet. But, lines can be blurred, and concepts can overlap. For instance, you may choose to feed a raw dog food diet while avoiding all of the foods that experts have deemed potentially harmful. Or you may want to employ holistic health concepts while using all organic ingredients. That's what homemade dog food is all about, after all - customizing your dog's diet in a way that fulfills both of you. In the most sensible manner, we'll start where the meat does: Raw.Raw Dog Food, or BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food - or - Bones and Raw Food):
Your dog is a wild animal that has been domesticated (some more than others). And, as with humans, any species' best diet is its native one. And a dog's native diet? MEAT. Additionally, many would attest that raw meat is optimal. Unlike humans, dogs are not generally susceptible to things like salmonella and e-coli. You and I might regularly eat raw meat if our systems could handle it - but we need to cook our meat to kill the bacteria that have the potential to devastate our digestive systems.
When meat is cooked, proteins, vitamins, and minerals break down and lose their benefit. Raw meat is also high in moisture - it provides a significant amount of your dog's daily water requirement (and that's great for proper kidney function). The great majority of your dog's diet should consist of meat protein - which is the one fool-proof ingredient that we know all dogs can digest and thrive on.
Commercial dog foods contain soy, corn, and wheat - all common allergens for dogs. Raw dog food advocates maintain that all grains should be eliminated from our dogs' diets. They also cite that grains have been blamed as culprits for pancreatic stress and tooth calculus, that our dogs were not designed to process these items, and that asking them to thrive on grains is like asking a human to thrive on a red meat diet - most experts would advise against it.
Let's start by discussing what a raw-food dog's diet should consist of. All meat should, obviously, be uncooked, and may include: Eggs (with shell), beef, buffalo, venison, elk, chicken, turkey, emu, ostrich, rabbit, and fish. Small animals, like rabbits and fish, may be fed whole - dogs love it this way.
At least 60-80% of your dog's raw food diet should consist of raw meat. Further broken down, that meat allowance should be roughly 20% organs, 20% skin and fat, and 35% muscle meat.
Bones included in a fresh kill are okay, and hold nutrition essential to your dog's well being. Beware, though - never feed old bones that have been inside a dead animal for any length of time or that have been preserved in any way. The best bone is a just-dead one. A fresh kill rabbit or a whole, fresh chicken provide whole meat and bone nutrition. And, yes, chicken bones are safe to feed your dog, provided that they remain fresh and uncooked (ask your Vet if you are still unsure). Bones become brittle and prone to splintering after they're cooked. When fresh, they are more easily chewed and digested.
Vegetables may be combined with meat, to account for 20-40% of your dog's diet. Appropriate ones include: Broccoli, squash, Romaine lettuce, carrots, cabbage, celery, and asparagus. Take note to any bloating or gas problems that your dog may experience. If he's looking distended and feels sluggish, start by eliminating the broccoli (that's usually the culprit), and then move on to the others until you find the gas-maker.
Where to get the raw meat? That's easy - visit your local butcher. Ever wonder what happens to the parts that we don't eat? Likely, they're tossed into the dumpster. Ask that butcher for left-overs, such as animal carcasses, necks, backs, feet, and tails. But remember - all meat should be fit for human consumption. Our dogs' systems can handle more than ours, but don't forget that you'll be handling the meat. After preparing meals for your dog, cleaning up with pure white vinegar will eliminate any bacteria from countertops and feeding bowls.
Intrigued? Ready to reintroduce your dog to his roots? Here's a homemade dog food recipe that he's bound to relish:
Raw Meat Mix - The Unstew
$7.00, 10 minutes Raise your paw if you like it raw!
1 lb. raw ground meat
2 cups ground or pureed vegetables
2-4 oz. raw organ meat (liver, gizzards, etc.)
half cup apple cider vinegar
2-3 cloves garlic
1 T ground kelp
half cup plain yogurt
3 eggs with shells
palmful of parsley
Mix all ingredients (chop, puree, or leave in large chunks, depending on your dog's preference) and store in the refrigerator or freezer. This mixture should account for 20-40% of your dog's daily diet.
The remaining 60-80% of your raw-food-eating dog's daily requirement should consist of raw meat and bones (backs, necks, carcasses). These items should range from $0.00 - $2.00 per pound, depending on how friendly you are with your butcher.
In raw conclusion...
Of course, percentages of meat to vegetables is approximate. But most raw food experts agree - the most important part of a raw dog food diet is the meat. Our furry friends are carnivores, and eat little or no vegetables in the wild.
Benefits of a raw dog food diet include fewer, and more compact stools; muscle development in the jaw, neck, and shoulders (resulting from the chewing required by the meat and bone diet); better digestion due to slower, labored chewing; and an extended lifespan - thanks to an adherence to a natural, unprocessed, diet.
Have an aversion to feeding raw meat? Is your dog a scarfer, not skilled at chewing bones? Then debone it! Cook it! Read on for recipes that cater to the more evolved canine.
Organic, Homemade Dog Food - Good Food in the Nude
You'd have to be living under a rock if you've missed all of the buzz about organic foods. Even your dog's heard about it. A whole pack of folks believe that pesticides, herbicides, human waste, sewage sludge, radiation, genetic modification, and artificial additives have no place in or on our produce. But what about meat? Did you know that your meat - and the meat that you prepare for your dog - can be organic, too? Organic meat is harvested from animals that have been raised without artificial growth hormones or antibiotics, and have not been fed animal by-products. Organic foods provide no more nutritional value than conventional ones, but their attraction is strictly about what's NOT in them. You'll be paying more for less (about twice as much) - but, it's less of what you DON'T want. Most grocers carry organic meat, and if they don't, ask for it.Almost any homemade dog food recipe can be converted to organic - by simply replacing conventional ingredients with organically-produced ones. Here's one that will fly out of the bowl:
Organic Wings 'N' Things
$7.00, 5 minutes half cup organic cottage cheesehalf cup organic grated carrots
4-5 organic skin-on raw chicken wings (or cooked organic chicken, with bones removed)
Pile up your dog's bowl (using our weight calculator) with these yummy ingredients and watch 'em fly.
Homemade Holistic Dog Food - Feeding the Whole Dog
Holistic feeding methods and medicine stand upon the idea that feeding the mind and body will serve to restore and maintain health and vitality. Principles include ideals such as balance and variety. Holistic diets may be fed raw or cooked - your choice. Meal rotation and variety is essential to holistic health principles, just as variety is essential to your own good daily diet. Dogs are naturally less carnivorous than cats. Their teeth testify to this - if you open the trap, you'll notice canines for ripping and grinders for other items that they naturally ingest while foraging in the wild.Holistic dog food notions dictate that grains are okay for dogs - based on the premise that when dogs eat wild animals, they also ingest the stomach contents of those animals, including grains and greens. Many holistic dog food recipes hover right around 2 parts protein, 1 part carbohydrates, and 1 part vegetables. Using these guidelines, you can whip up any number of recipes. Here's a yummy example:
Buffaloaf
$10.00, 1 hour 3 cups ground buffalo (lean)2 eggs
1 and a half cups old fashioned oats
three quarter's of a cup grated mixed vegetables, including zucchini, broccoli, carrots, and sweet potato
half cup cottage cheese
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Hand-mix all ingredients and press into a loaf pan. Bake for 40 minutes. May be refrigerated, or frozen in slices for easy serving.
Substitute ground turkey, chicken, or beef, if desired. Mixing meats is not recommended.
Do Supplements Have A Place In Your Dog's Diet?
Though opinions differ greatly, I believe that a healthy dog's nutritional requirements can be fulfilled with little more than food and sunshine. Calcium and Magnesium levels are generally the only two deficiency concerns when feeding a homemade dog food recipe diet.You may supplement calcium with unflavored yogurt, white cheese, pulverized egg shells, and sardines. Vitamin D (to release the calcium) can be obtained from cod liver oil or time spent outside, in the sunshine. Magnesium is found in kelp and spinach, which are both acceptable, but only when steamed first.
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Handling Your Dog and His Bihavior
In most cases, behavior problems are really communication problems. When you stop to think about it, it's amazing humans and dogs can live together at all. Besides being totally different animals, we also see, hear, smell, taste, and feel the world very differently -- and process it all through a very different brain.
Dog behavior can be cute and endearing or it can be destructive or drive you up a wall. See more dog pictures.
Back
when all dogs were wild, actions like chewing, scent-marking, and
barking weren't an issue. Now that dogs are a regular part of human
families, these natural behaviors can become problem behaviors. That
means we have to shape a dog's natural behavior so it fits in with
polite society -- what we might call teaching a dog good manners.
Here's how.
Dog behavior can be cute and endearing or it can be destructive or drive you up a wall. See more dog pictures.
Here's how.
- Handling an Aggressive DogDogs can be aggressive for myriad reasons, ranging from furious anger to loving playfulness. Defensiveness, territorial protection, pain, even reproductive urges -- these all can cause aggressive behavior. It behooves every dog owner to know the difference, for everyone's safety and benefit. It cannot take much to push an aggressive dog to the point where he is biting or attacking a family member or neighbor. There are, however, strategies to make your dog friendly and sociable. Learn how.
- Handling a Dog that Bites
Dog's mouths are analogous to human hands -- they are dogs' way of interacting with the word and analyzing it. Dogs bite for many reasons, including anger and self-defense and love and playfulness. These reasons are easy to confuse because in the end they all have the same result. For whatever reason your dog has a tendency to bite, there are solutions to keep your dog from biting people or other dogs. - Stopping a Dog from Chasing Cars
Dogs have a deep urge to chase quickly moving things, and so when your dog gives chase to a Chevy, it makes a lot more sense to him than it might to you. In fact, the site of any object passing by your dog at a high speed can make your dog want to take off after it. Such a dog can confuse or frighten a driver, and put himself in danger. You can break you dog of this habit with a little patience. In this section you will find some tips on curbing your dog's car-chasing urge. - Stopping a Dog from Chewing
Young dogs are especially prone to chewing because - just like newborns - it can be painful when their teeth grow in. But even grown dogs will chew inappropriately if distressed or bored. In some cases, chewing can even be good for your dog and keep his teeth clean. You can train your dog to know the difference between good chewing and bad chewing. Learn how to keep your dog focused on the chew toy and not your new sneakers. - Stopping a Dog from Eating StoolIt might not be pleasant to talk about, and it certainly seems repulsive to us, but many dogs eat their own feces or the feces of other animals. Coprophagy is the medical name for this unpleasant canine habit that is more common among younger dogs. If an older dog eats its own stool it could be a sign or a more significant problem. There are ways to get your dog to break this natural inclination. In this section we discuss ways to remove the temptation from your dog.
- Stopping a Dog's Excessive Digging
Dogs like to dig, and in fact some breeds have been bred to do just that. In most cases it's harmless, but it can be very destructive to your yard -- or your neighbor's. It can also be messy when you're dog spends an hour exploring the mud in your garden and then comes bounding into the living room. Let's also not forget that your dog can just as easily burrow into your carpet as your yard. If you'd had it with your dog's excavations, in this section we discuss ways to curb your dog's urge to dig. - Stopping a Dog's Fighting Behavior
Dogs are very territorial, and very tuned into the hierarchy of a group. Dominance is very important in canine society. In fact, most of the behavior problems you have with your dog may stem from the way your dog perceives the power structure with you. If your dog believes he is the "top dog" or "alpha male" in your house, he might try to assert his dominance over you. For this reason, they can be motivated to fight, and when dogs fight, it can be quite frightening and dangerous for all involved. Here we explain the fight-impulse and how you can curb it or prevent it from coming into play. - Stopping a Dog's Excessive Guarding
If you walk by your dog when he is eating his dinner and he gives you a nasty growl, he's not just being rude. Dogs guard their food by nature, but sometimes this behavior can become almost compulsive. Not only can this behavior lead the occasional swipe at your fingers, it is also important to be able to get something out of dogs mouth if it is toxic. In addition to food, dogs can also be protective of their favorite possessions. Here we discuss the problem, and ways to solve it -- some that involve a change in the dog-owner's behavior. - Stopping a Dog from Jumping
When a pooch races across the room and jumps up to your shoulders, it's not always a sign of love and affection -- and regardless, it's often inconvenient, uncomfortable or downright frightening. While some owners like to be greeted by their dog so enthusiastically, your dog might give the same salutation to other, more inappropriate guests. Pizza delivery people, relatives who are afraid of dogs, or young children might be put off by an aggressive dog. You can curb this behavior and even train your dog to jump on command. You will learn how in this section. - Stopping a Dog from Marking Territory
It's natural for a dog to mark territory, but they can take it too far, especially if they're under stress. With help from you in regulating their world and teaching them appropriate behavior, a dog can be trained to mark territory only where appropriate. As with guarding their food, marking territory is behavior that is ingrained in all dogs. While you can't train to teach your dog to sit at the table with a knife and fork, you can teach him to control this habit. This section will give you the advice you need. - Stopping a Dog from Leash Pulling
Dogs are genetically encoded to pull on a leash, stemming from their historical use as pullers of sleds and packs. Some dogs, however, take this behavior too far by straining against the leash so hard that it interferes with their breathing. It might not be possible to break your pet of this habit entirely, but that's not to say you can't train your pooch to keep this aggressive behavior to a minimum. Depending on your breed of dog, this section offers a variety of solutions for this problem. - If you would like to train the behavior of your Dog I would highly recommend that you check this book :
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10 “People” Foods for Dogs
10 “People” Foods for Dogs
Provide variety and a nutritional boost
By Elizabeth Pask and Laura Scott
As a responsible and informed dog lover, you probably know that too much “people food” can make your dog ill or overweight, but there are some human foods that can be safely added to your dog’s meals in moderation to give a nutritional boost to Queenie’s diet and add a bit of variety to her food bowl. Just remember: any additions to your dog’s meals shouldn’t comprise more than 25 percent of her weekly caloric requirement.
1. Yogurt
is a good source of available calcium and protein. When choosing
yogurt, pick one that has live active bacteria and no sugars or
artificial sweeteners. The active bacteria may act as probiotics. If
your pooch is pudgy, make sure that you pick fat-free yogurt but not one
that contains fat substitutes (e.g., Simplesse or Olestra). Frozen
yogurt is a nice summer treat for dogs.
2. Flax seed
(ground or oil) is a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are
essential fatty acids that are good for skin and coat. Whole flax seeds
are best if ground right before feeding as this type of fat can go
rancid quickly. Flax seed can also be added to your dog’s diet as a
source of fibre. Flax oil is a more concentrated form of omega- 3 fatty
acids without the fibre. Make sure that you store the oil or seeds in
the fridge in an air tight dark container.
3. Salmon
is a fatty fish which is also a good source of omega- 3 fatty acids.
These fats support the immune system and can be beneficial for skin and
coat health. There has also been some indication that they may benefit
dogs with allergies. You can feed salmon or salmon oil. If feeding
salmon, make sure it’s cooked before serving, as raw salmon can carry a
parasite that can make your dog sick.
4. Pumpkin
is a good source of fibre and beta carotene (a source of vitamin A).
Dogs need fibre in their diet. The current trend is towards highly
digestible diets that lower stool volume and this is not necessarily a
good thing. Keeping the GI tract moving helps keep the cells lining the
gut healthy.
5. Sweet potatoes
are another source of dietary fibre and contain vitamin B6, vitamin C,
beta carotene, and manganese. Sweet potatoes are great sliced and
dehydrated as a chewy treat for your dog. There are so many dog treats
on the market that we often overlook the simple, healthy, and reasonably
priced treats available at our grocery store.
6. Green beans
are a good source of plant fibre, vitamin K, vitamin C, and manganese.
If your dog has a tendency to put on weight, then replacing some of her
regular food with green beans is a great low calorie way to fill her up
and help her maintain a healthy weight. Many dogs enjoy green beans
frozen.
7. Eggs
are a great source of very digestible protein, riboflavin, and
selenium. For some dogs that are prone to digestive upset, eggs can give
them a little protein boost. Adding eggs to your dog’s food is a
healthy treat. Make sure to use cooked whole egg, as raw egg whites can
cause biotin deficiency. If you do a lot of training with your dog,
consider taking cooked eggs to your next class as training treats.
8. Brewer’s yeast is the yeast that’s left over from making alcohol. Dogs seem to really enjoy the tangy taste of brewer’s yeast. It’s full of B vitamins which are good for skin, coat, and carbohydrate metabolism. Make sure you’re using brewer’s yeast (available at health food stores), not baking yeast which will make your dog sick. Brewer’s yeast can spice up your dog’s appetite. Just sprinkle a little on the food of a picky eater and watch her dive into her food.
9. Apples
are wonderful crunchy treats for your dog. Apples with the skin on are
full of plant chemicals (phytonutrients) that are thought to be
protective against some types of cancer in humans. They are a source of
vitamins A and C and fibre. Apple seeds, however, contain cyanide so
your dog should not be allowed to eat the core. Though the effects of a
few apple seeds will likely not harm your dog, the deleterious effects
can accumulate over time if allowed to eat apple seeds regularly.
10. Oatmeal
is a good source of soluble fibre. This can be beneficial for some
older dogs that may have trouble maintaining bowel regularity. Oatmeal
is also an alternative source of grain for dogs that are allergic to
wheat. It can be fed in conjunction with probiotics to enhance their
function. Keep in mind oatmeal should always be fed cooked and plain
with no sugar or flavouring. As always, check with your veterinarian
before making any major changes to your dog’s diet, especially if they
are on any medications. Upsetting the vitamin and mineral balances in
your dog’s diet can have negative effects on your dog’s health and some
medications interact badly with some nutrients. The aim of most dog
owners is to give their dogs the best diet possible. Good nutrition
coupled with a health care program may result in extending your dog’s
life by as much as 15 percent. The suggestions above are not meant to
replace your dog’s normal, balanced diet. Rather, they are ideas for
alternative treats or for adding a little variety to your dog’s meals.If you would like to feed your dog well i would highly recommend this E book
Dog Urine Killing Your Grass? Read This
This happens because of the fact that urine is composed of a lot of nitrogen. If your grass is growing well, then the soil has all of the nitrogen that it needs. An excessive amount will cause the grass to become colored most commonly to brown or yellow. This problem is really made much worse if you're using lawn fertilizer that adds additional nitrogen to the soil.
The sex of your dog will also affect how much of your grass gets discolored. Both sexes output urine with similar concentrations of nitrogen and uric acid. However, males tend to urinate on trees, mailboxes, hydrants, and other objects.
This isn't the case with their female counterparts. Your female dog will squat down and put all of her urine in one spot. Such a high concentration will dramatically increase the risk of dog urine killing your grass. There are a few things that you can do to help prevent this problem.
You don't want to start messing around with your dog's pH for any old reason. You definitely don't want to do so without consulting your veterinarian beforehand. Your vet can simply recommend that you switch to a different dog food. Foods that contain protein that's more digestible will probably help avoid the problem with your grass.
Supplements also exist to help with the problem of dog urine discoloring your grass. You would especially need to seek advice from your vet before giving your canine any of these though.
Another option to save your lawn is to train your dog to use more inconspicuous areas. At least you wouldn't have to deal with lots of discolored spots in your front yard. After your dog uses the bathroom, you can use the hose to rinse the area which will go a long ways towards preventing discoloration.
As you have already learned, lawn fertilizer contains nitrogen. If you make use of fertilizer, then make sure that it doesn't contain too much. With your dog urinating in a fertilized yard, you would most likely have problems with spots appearing.
You should also be aware that your dog urine killing your grass may not be caused by your pet alone. Other animals may come onto your property to alleviate themselves. The main way to avoid this scenario is to erect a fence around your yard. However, fences won't be able to keep out more agile animals like cats.
How to stop a dog fight
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